Defender td5 softtop to hardtop conversion

I have decided to convert my softtop Defender td5 from Softtop to hardtop after 11 years, the main reason for this conversion is all the dead space i was not using and security handicap when overlanding.

Therefore my options after a long research were the folowing:

1- AFN Aluminium hardtop Hartop viewing cost around 3.000 Euros (including 2 lateral windows – paint job-  rear door tailgate slide ) – it doesnt include the upper Alpine windows and the rear smaller side widons. It misses the land rover spirit and cost is high

2- option 2 would be a fiberglass hardtop which all the same is expensive and ugly French manufaturer

3- Bringing us to the best option which is in fact to buy a used hardtop that i found from a recked defender 1999, search was not so easy but with patience i did find one and as i thought it was way cheaper than any of the above options (price varies between 600-700 Euros).

I will still need to refurb as you can see below and now i am in process of painting it in Land Rover metallic black (Java Black – color code LRC 697) at the same time i already started to bring in from Paddock new parts (rubbers) ( i know what you are thinking) even with all this it is still less expensive from the above 2 options or even putting an entire 8 point rollbar from safety devices.

The Day came to take the softtop out myself step by setp and remain with all the bits and pieces bolts ect.. (it would be the last time i see the Landy without any softop)

Afterwards came the second phase is to actually fit the new painted hardtop to the car body itself, this was not a straight job at the begining as the alingment has to be worked very carefully, the hardtop is basically bolted to the body with 4 lower back bolts and another 6 bolts in the upper front and 2 side bolts.

I can confirm now that what you need to fit a hardtop is the following material to try as much as you can have a tight fit and be water tight

1-MTC4994 Roof inner sealing
2-MTC6568 It is basicaly glues on the large metal edge of the windscreen and it is suppose to rest exactly below MTC4994 (NOT IN PARALLEL) one on top of the other.
3- MUC6400 or MXC3684/MXC3685 (depending on your model and the idea behind is that both seal fit on the extreme lower corner side below MTC4994 to push out the SEAL and block the water ingress in the corner.
4- Rear Door rubber seal CKE500130
5- there a lower seal waist on both sides of the hardtop between the hardtop and body caping and it serves mainly to stop water ingress ALR5056 (same for both sides) or AML710070 left /AML710071 right – need to know your model)
4- MTC3203 Nut plate (6 needed front hardtop to windscreen fixing
5- FS106255L bolts to be used (falanged one – 6 for the front)

i used same front door rubber seals

I am still working on the water ingress which i have btween the hardtop and cappings (working on a solution)

Again i had to put the windows myself which is not easy without the window rubber filler tool) YOU NEED ONE if you attempt it

You need as well patience and water with soap

On this defender quarter back window I placed the rubber filler from the inside which is not standard (filler is from outside) which I did on the side windows and alpine Windows as well ( it is not so easy to fit window when the filler channel is from the inside of the car)

As for the rear back door i had only to buy the stricker FQB500160 to close the door (locking mechanism)