Td5inside Remap on ECU NNN500020

New product to monitor rd5 engine …….a mix between nanocom and Madman with a touchscreen

AFTER

I did today the famous td5inside remap and I did it with the man himself, Jose Amorin. I am very confident that he knows exactly what he is doing, very professional and helpful fully covered me on all my questions, he already has so many projects in the pipeline.

He copied my original map from my ECU and added his tweeks on it and that what makes the whole difference, no standard mapping ( he says no map is equal as he listen to what I wanted)

I purchase from him a ecu + remap somewhere between stage 1 and stage 2 I am about 169hp.

The Landy instantly was reborn, what a difference!!!

So far I felt significant changes instantly on the below, I am actually enjoying again driving the Landy ……something I was starting to have less

Power/Torque

throttle input / response (less lag – no flat spot)

better motorway hill climbing

Less stress on engine (Reving less the engine)

At the end Jose told to try it for a few days and get back to him for any changes I might need.

The after sale service from this guy is great, he confirmed to me that i should go around for a while and if i need any changes to let him know and he will make sure to rectify for me personally.

He offered me as well the Hybrid Turbo form them that i have to give my turbo when busted and they will redo the interior parts with better performance parts for almost the same price of a new one…..sounds interesting!!!

Check him out here:

https://www.facebook.com/Td5Inside/

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BEFORE

The big day is getting closer, I do believe more and more about a soft remap that will improve economy, drivability and Torque up to a max. 155hp without stressing engine and parts on the opposite prolong the engine life and efficiency…..

For starters I need to find a second hand ecu same as mine 500020 to remap.I have decided to have one original and a remapped.

TD5 inside stages:

Stage 1  155 cv/365Nm…………….this is the one i am looking into
Stage 2  170 cv/400Nm
Stage 3 – 190cv/500Nm*

Will try to share my experience and research….

It is important to have the following mods done before you remap lets say to fully take advantage of the remap

• EGR Removal
• Intercooler
• De-Cat (down pipe removal)
• Silencer removal (center box) for a straight thru
• Silicon hoses ( just to be safe)

For starters I need to find a second hand ecu same as mine 500020 to remap.I have decided to have one original and a remapped.

What am i looking for:

1. Fuel Economy
2. Power/Torque
3. throttle input / response (less lag – no flat spot)
4. better motorway hill climbing
5. better towing
6. Less stress on engine (Reving less the engine)

Since a long time I haven’t seen such an interesting YouTube from an enthusiast on overland and remap limit for such travels, enjoy

I will add below thoughts of enthusiate that i find interesting about remapping and their insights:

Yep, td5 inside stage 2 remap.

The low down torque when starting off from a standstill it a big improvement. You touch the throttle and the rubber bands winds up straight away unlike the factory mapping which takes a couple of seconds to think about it. Also when normal driving and you come to merge in traffic and someone wants to make a race of it even though they are 2 car lengths behind you can now use a bit of the loud pedal and away she goes. Instant response. It now glides up hills which it had to drop back a gear for before and it revved its head off just to maintain some semblance of forward motion. I’m probably being a bit harsh but it’s hard to describe how much difference there is. It’s a new vehicle. I love driving it again

I bought the nanocom after umming and arring for the last couple of years. I wanted to be able to do the remapping myself and play with the other options. So finally bit the bullet and bought it and a madman ems2 to mount in the new mudpod on the dash to monitor EGT. Once I had those in and sorted I contacted Jose again and a couple of hours later had the newly remapped file. Took me about 10 mins to check, double check and finally triple check the instructions and then upload the new file. Start her up and off I went.

From what I have been told the Td5 ecu was mapped to be able to handle all sorts of diesel all over the world. So for example it needed to be able to handle the poor quality fuel in Africa (an example) so the factory tune was pretty mild. A lot of testing later there is a few companies who will use your downloaded map and alter it so that you get instant increase in torque and power without a lot of expensive mods. It’s supposedly still in the safe range of performance for the engine etc so shouldn’t be breaking things left, right and centre. For the relatively small outlay for the remap I’m stoked.

Quote:

Warped manifolds and snapped studs are caused by excessive EGT (exhaust gas temperatures), which on a diesel is caused by excessive fuel, a Diesel will quickly ramp up EGT and can causes the manifold to warp. However, due to manufacturing tolerances some manifolds will warp at lower EGT – which is why it’s a problem even on some standard cars. Usually once a manifold has warped – a quick skim soon repairs it.
The other thing that can cause problems is thrashing it from cold – a sudden change in temperature can make the manifold do funny things.

As long as you look after your Td5… so regular servicing, good quality fuel, let it warm up and down etc etc then you should not have any problems.

Quote

so my advice would be to drive it as you usually would do, not to just put your foot to the floor and expect it to push you back in your seat. By that time your used to it being better, you’re already kind of used to it and need to drive the old un-mapped vehicle again to appreciate what it used to be like

Quote:

I think they way to think about it with modern remaps (as opposed to the old tuning boxes) is that the same fuel may be used more efficiently. Therefore, the same fuel may mean more power and less fuel may mean the same power as the original set-up. That’s all very generalised though, and both driving style and usage will still have a significant effect on the final outcome.

less gear changes in a manual and more ooomph for hills, better cruising etc

Quote: Ian IRB

Don’t think it as more power = more fuel.

A remap, well changes done to the engine ECU calibration (done properly) is more than just using adding fuel.

Diesel technology has advanced with leaps and bounds over the last 10 years, gone are days when all you do is increase the fuel (pulse width).

Modern diesel calibrations are based on torque strategies where the ECU determines how much fuel to inject (and when) based on throttle demand, air temp, load, air density, boost pressure etc etc. It does not just run off a basic map that says ‘x’ amount of fuel for ‘y’ amount of throttle pedal demand.

Modifying a Defender calibration all about changes to the torque and power curves – i.e. making much better use of the torque capability of the engine. And making sure certain things are optimised.

By giving the vehicle a much more usable torque band, you will not need to drive the vehicle has hard and you will be able to use higher gears etc etc… basically you end up with a much more relaxed drive.

By doing this, you will increase efficiency.

I have seen failures… but only from people who do not know what they are doing playing with calibration. These companies think they need to play with pulse width, injector timing and then try and increase the boost to get rid of the smoke (regardless of the fact they will never make the power they claim as other limits kick in). The over fuelling from playing with pulse width and timing leads to excessive smoke and high EGT – but more dangerously will lead to bore wash and ramped up bore/cylinder wear.

Regardless of whether then engine is tuned or not – regular (on time) servicing with good quality oil is critical to the longevity of the Tdci engine.
In my opinion, that is the wrong way to do it…

The standard calibration in a Defender has been developed to work with the standard intercooler and standard exhaust. As such, changing components without changing the calibration means you will not get the full benefits.

Removing the CAT and centre pipe dramatically reduces exhaust back pressure – which if you want to preserve the life of the turbo – means that the calibration should really be adjusted to match these changes.

The same does apply to the intercooler – whilst a more efficient intercooler will keep air intake temperatures lower – the down side is that it is a big change to the air path circuit, and really this should be accounted for within the calibration.

If it was me – I’d make sure everything is set up correctly (in terms of pilot correction and fuel pump learn) and then do a first level calibration change – with EGR removal – and a few changes to the air intake system.

Quote:

Simply speacking, a OEM map done for respect the emission limits are not “efficient” for maximize the engine efficiency.

With a good remap (and with the EGR blanked) not only you increase the power, but also increase the engine overall efficiency. That means that at the same “driving style” the remapped engine need less fuel…..

Just for explain you:
The EGR recirculate part of the burned air (no oxigen) to reduce the combustion temperature (and reduce the NOx). But it is clear that the engine not runs at 100%….